World-class fine-dining experience on Garden Route

Everything about visiting this Wilderness restaurant feels splendidly serendipitous

Lizelle and Rudolf Stolze in their happy place at Serendipity Restaurant on the Garden Route
HOT SPOT: Lizelle and Rudolf Stolze in their happy place at Serendipity Restaurant on the Garden Route
Image: supplied

The word sublime comes to mind when I talk about Serendipity Restaurant and Guest House in Wilderness on the Garden Route.

Denoting the ultimate in excellence or beauty, “sublime” is not a word to be used lightly or often, but no other word will suffice when it comes to this place.

That’s really how mind-blowing it is — and why I am legitimately able to use this word.

Serendipity Restaurant and guest house is perched on the banks of the Touw River estuary in Wilderness, conveniently located between George and Knysna, and is surrounded by pristine beaches, indigenous forests and fynbos.

The Serendipity guest house was built in 1998, and it’s an oasis set in a garden of indigenous trees, shrubs and forest lilies.

It’s a space that is unpretentious, classic and yet modern — but in all aspects hearkening back to a time when life was gracious, when dining out was something special; an event to get dressed up for.

When food was so much more important than grabbing a hamburger or choosing from  conveyor belts of sushi in jeans!

The Serendipity homestead has won accolades for five-star accommodation in their four rooms on the first floor — with every creature comfort like pillows that deliver the best sleep, tea and coffee with homemade rusks, a lovely terrace with views over the Touw River, to wine glasses and a corkscrew — you name it, they have it.

Foreigners mainly come to eat and stay here while out-of-town locals do the same — and there are the perennial swallows (locals who live here and overseas, and generally chase summers, hence the name) on the Garden Route who know to book their dinner here before they even arrive back on home soil.

We arrived and took one of their canoes out for a paddle down the river.

On that particular day the water was a like a mirror with 3-D reflections of upside down trees and reeds — and among the many river birds we saw a kingfisher.

We were told that dinner started at 6.30pm but already, in the late afternoon, aromas of food were wafting around the home.

At the appointed time we duly went down a rather grand wooden staircase, and the fire had been lit in the lounge where all diners meet and mingle before heading for the formal dining room.

We met a young British couple and a German couple enthusing about SA — seemingly unconcerned about load-shedding since the places they go are upmarket enough to afford generators, like Serendipity, which rolls out dinner irrespective of Eskom.

Every couple is assigned a waiter for the evening and Joseph was our man.

He explained the various aperitif options and it was clear from the outset that this was to be a special evening.

I chose the “spook” (Afrikaans word for ghost) because Joseph tells a whole story about this drink made from pinot noir wine distilled with rose geranium, topped with Indian tonic.

It’s like nothing I have ever tasted, with notes of Turkish delight and bubbles that tickle your nose.

My partner had the prickly royale, also something unique this team have come up with — locally sourced prickly pear syrup topped with an SA MCC.

There is another favourite, Caperitif, which is an SA vermouth made from 27 indigenous herbs served with ruby grapefruit ad ginger ale.

On any given night Rudolf and Lizelle Stolze, owners and head chef, would be there to personally host guests, but this evening they have had an emergency.

Testament to their team, the experience rolled without the hint of a glitch and Lizelle’s mom, Elsabe, who runs the guest house, stepped in seamlessly.

Soon we are ushered into the dining room, which is intimate, and of course there are candles and starched white linen on the tables (I am starting to regret wearing jeans).

Then we are introduced to our five-course menu, with full explanations of ingredients like ostrich, pap and other SA favourites, all explained by Joseph and the other waiter Emilio, in a lively and informative way.

The philosophy of this kitchen is founded on showcasing the wealth of culinary gems (from ostrich to venison to free-range Bonsmara beef) that SA offers in a unique and innovative way.

Lizelle describes her kitchen as a place where a language of harmony, creativity, happiness, beauty and poetry resonates.

They use local and indigenous red meat and birds, fresh fish, and vegetables from the garden — and each is treated with the respect it deserves, Lizelle says.

Her dishes are original and sophisticated, yet simplicity shines through as none of the main unique ingredients is overpowered, just enhanced.

And the very best way to enjoy this meal is with Rudolf’s wine choice with each course.

Joseph tells us the couple, and kitchen staff, are regularly found  tasting and sipping in the kitchen to find the perfect pairing.

Wine is selected from the best vineyards in SA, with emphasis on promoting wine producing regions from the Southern Cape and Klein Karoo.

The list here contains a spread of varietals and a description of each wine that is helpful for novice wine drinkers and overseas guests unfamiliar with local labels.

Rudolf aims for his collection of about 55 wines to be exciting with a mix of established labels and newcomers mindful of their cultivar, vintage and terroir, but also priced so there is value for money and one is not cornered into a hideously expensive bottle if you don’t want to pay that much.

A tip here is that they decided from the outset they wanted guests to experience the finest SA wines, and  so their mark-up is three times less than other restaurants.

You can choose a bottle for the evening, but I recommend going with the suggested pairing as we did.

On the menu that night, for starters, was springbok tartare with a little quail’s egg to be broken over it, or smoked snoek pate with roasted gazpacho dressing, tomato carpaccio, tomato jam and nasturtiums.

Then there was cauliflower soup with biltong croutons, a buchu and lemon slurpy palate cleanser, and for mains ostrich fillet with sweet-potato kluitjies, roasted pumpkin, and just enough green on the plate to make it look and taste like a masterpiece.

The other option was fillet of linefish with squashed caper baby potatoes, sautéed veg and green herbs.

The vegetarian option was courgette dhaltjies with curried red lentils, roasted aubergine, yoghurt mint raitha and poppadom.

Dessert was a dark chocolate and date torte with Maltabella creme patissiere of all things — out of this world — while the other option was a pineapple mieliepap cake with  num-num (locally foraged, indigenous, red-plum like fruit) sorbet, passion fruit and lemon verbena meringue.

All I can say is that each course was a riotous celebration of flavours, but not overkill.

And the wines Joseph chose for us were perfect for the respective courses — including an introduction to SA shiraz wines Donegal and Audacia.

It’s no surprise then that Lizelle, who confesses she is addicted to food, strong coffee, the darkest chocolate, freshly baked olive focaccia and chunks of artisan cheese is very qualified, and has raked in awards for Serendipity Restaurant, which she and Rudolf started in 2001.

A graduate of Pretoria University, she obtained her degree — BCom in Hotel and Tourism Management — after which she gained top honours as a dux cum laude student of the Prue Leith Academy of Food and Wine.

She has also lectured at the Prue Leith Academy of Food and Wine,  is a fellow member of the SA Chefs Association (SACA), and an “honoraire vice conceilleire culinaire” of the Chaine Des Rotisseurs.

She has worked in serious five-star kitchens like The Michelangelo in Sandton, and at the Fancourt Hotel, Country Club and Golf Estate in George. She also gained international experience in Florida, in the US.

During winter breaks she visits Michelin Star establishments the world over to keep abreast of food trends.

After the first season of starting Serendipity, the restaurant was chosen as one of the Top 100 Restaurants in SA.

In 2010 and 2013, the SA Tourism Association chose her as one of its Top 10 Young Chefs and Top Women Chefs in the country.

The couple was invited to join the Chaine des Rotisseurs, and they won the American Express Dining Fine Award from 2008 until 2017, when this section was closed.

They have been honoured by Odre Mondial Des Fourmets Degustateurs, been special guests of Moet & Chandon at the champagne maker’s headquarters in France, and are according to Diners Club in the top 100 restaurants in SA.

American Express, too, has recognised Serendipity as a Platinum Fine Dining Restaurant, and they have won awards from the World Luxury Restaurant Awards for Best SA Cuisine.

This family chose the word Serendipity for their restaurant as it means a happy, unexpected discovery.

I can vouch for this restaurant being all of the above.

Yes, it’s pricey for South Africans, at R695 a head, but remember it’s for five courses, and we all have those very special occasions in life that should be celebrated in a way that’s out of the ordinary.

I have been ruminating about a wedding gift for a couple who have everything, and a meal voucher here, paired with Rudolf’s choice of wine, is just perfect.

 

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