Long ageing makes superior wine


In today’s world of lightning-fast technology and instant gratification, there’s often little appreciation for things that take time to reach their full potential.
Wine is a case in point.
Most commentators agree that South Africans like to drink our wines too young; we lack the patience to give wine the time it needs and favour the shiny new vintage over the bottle that’s been quietly maturing for a few years.
A bit of age – and here we’re talking about two to five years, not decades – can do wonders to soften tannins and acidity, time allowing the flavours and influence of oak to integrate into a well-rounded, softer, smoother experience.
Two recent arrivals from the 2014 vintage presented the opportunity to experience the benefits of letting a wine lie down for a few years before opening.
At Whalehaven in Hermanus, co-owner Silvana Bottega says its Conservation Coast chardonnay and pinot noir are cellared for at least two years before release, “ensuring that connoisseurs and sommeliers can purchase wines where optimal bottle ageing has contributed greater flavour development”.
Released earlier this year, both wines were bottled in 2015 after being matured in oak barrels (four months for the chardonnay and nine to 10 for the pinot noir).
Sommeliers certainly expect food lovers to appreciate the difference – both wines made this year’s Sommeliers Selection of wines recommended for restaurant wine lists as great food partners: the chardonnay in the “voluptuous and rich” category and the pinot noir in “elegant and classy reds”.
“Voluptuous and rich” is apt for the chardonnay, a wonderful treat with its deep golden colour and nose headily fragrant with vanilla.
The wine has delicious chardonnay butteriness, but without any heaviness or oiliness that the colour might suggest.
The benefits of ageing show in a wine that’s rounded and textured, full flavoured and layered with complexity; rich and mellow, balanced with freshness and a zesty streak.
A super-long flavourful finish completes the experience.
Also bottled in 2015, after 18 months’ wood maturation, Constantia Glen FIVE 2014 released a couple of months ago has already garnered rave reviews and a 95-point score from international critics, and just last week a 4.5* rating in the 2019 Platters.
The product of an exceptionally cool 2014 growing season, with long ripening time resulting in concentrated flavours, fine tannins, and a wine of elegance and finesse.
The international critics have singled it out as an example of how to make a Bordeaux blend, praising its velvet smoothness, suppleness and refinement.
It delivers everything you want in a Bordeaux blend – deep, rich colour and flavours, with savoury notes and juicy fresh blackberry and cassis, smooth and beautiful to drink.
Sadly, age and quality like this come at a price – both the Whalehaven wines and the Constantia Glen won’t leave you with much change from R400 – but totally worth it for a special treat.

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