Getting the balance just right at Kleine Zalze

Kleine Zalze claimed the Platter’s Winery of the Year Award in 2021
EXCELLENCE AND AFFORDABILITY: Kleine Zalze claimed the Platter’s Winery of the Year Award in 2021
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It is one of the conundrums of the wine industry that a trophy cabinet laden with medals, critics’ high scores and stars signalling quality often puts the winning wines out of reach of affordability for the ordinary wine lover.

Meanwhile, the massive production volumes that allow for affordable price tags don’t always attract the right kind of attention from wine judges, critics and awarders-of-stars, and don’t always deliver what many “ordinary” wine lovers are looking for — above-ordinary quality at an affordable price.

Kleine Zalze in Stellenbosch is one of the mass-scale producers that seems to have got the balance right, with a “ladder” of wines at various points of affordability, with high ratings and awards on every “rung”.

Take Platter’s, for example — most of the “first rung” Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection wines have four-star ratings, which is quite exceptional for high-volume wines under R100, while the four and 4.5-star ratings are liberally sprinkled through the upper levels of the Vineyard Selection (sub-R200) and the R300+ Family Reserve and Project Z (the latter being the critics’ delight of experimental, niche, small-batch wines).

It’s fairly rare for a large-scale producer (about 400,000 cases/year is pretty large) to deliver that kind of excellence at both the premium and volume levels, reason for Kleine Zalze claiming the Platter’s Winery of the Year Award in 2021.

A recent tasting with marketing manager Jonathen Ralph highlighted the depth of quality and interest in the well-priced levels of the Cellar Selection and Vineyard Selection wines.

Cellar Selection Cinsault Rosé 2022 is a delicate pink, bone-dry but bursting with floral, peach and watermelon aromas and flavours, finished off with a citrusy zing — a happy wine with friends, food and sunshine.

Kleine Zalze’s reputation was built on Chenin Blanc and the 2022 vintage, sporting a Michelangelo Double Gold, is, in a word, delicious.

Great everyday drinking with abundant tropical and citrus flavours, a balance of ripe fruit sweetness and zestiness, with four months on the lees adding complexity and texture.

The Cellar Selection whites are about R75-R80, while Ralph says the reds are purposefully kept under R100, retailing usually for about R90, to keep them accessible and offer an attractive value-for-quality proposition.

Merlot 2019 is their biggest-selling red, juicy and fruity but with the layers of flavour interest to go well with food.

Matured mostly in older oak for about 12 months, with a portion matured in

stainless steel to retain freshness, this isn’t your average “soft” merlot — it’s smooth and elegant for sure, but vibrant too, with defined tannin structure.

Similarly the 2020 Cab Merlot offers depth and complexity way beyond what you’d expect in a sub-R100 red wine — the blend artfully combining the dark plumminess of Cabernet Sauvignon with the savoury, herbal notes and velvety tannins of the Merlot.

Both make great additions to an everyday “at home” wine list, with food or without, and definitely with good company.

Skip up a level to the Vineyard Selection for a focus on specific vineyards and cultivar expression, refined flavours and complexity, easy to drink but also great food partners.

The Chardonnay 2022 (about R145) is barrel-fermented, elegantly creamy without being oily, fresh citrus flavours balanced with subtle oak influence and fine acidity holding it all together.

Vineyard Selection Shiraz 2020 is a shiraz-lover’s must —  generous in aromas and flavours, ripe black berries and a touch of black pepper, a little chalkiness and a plush mouthfeel, it’s calling out for oxtail or venison in the winter months.

The 2020 Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is all about that characteristic balance of power and elegance, a classic Stellenbosch Cab with blackcurrants and black cherries mingling with subtle herbal notes, fine tannins and a lingering oak finish, built to last.

Enter Kleine Zalze at any rung on the ladder and you won’t be disappointed.

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