Penguin whispers
The third and final part of Port Alfred artist JANE FOOTE's Antarctic adventure.
| MARCHING WITH PENGUINS: Jane Foote gets up close and personal with Adelie penguins in Antarctica Picture: AMY WEEBER |
I saved two highlights of our trip for the final article.
Up close and personal with penguins
On New Year's Day, some people, including my husband Dudley, were at SANAE, but a lot of us were still on the boat sailing along in calm seas past exquisite icebergs... to where? We had no idea.
The ship moored against a low ice-shelf for the night. The next morning – a beautiful day – we were swung across onto the ice in the rope basket, and immediately Adelie penguins came running. They waddled and hopped about, even mingling with the people playing soccer.
Everyone clowned around but when some Adelies settled down to doze, I got down on my tummy too and wriggled close enough to touch them - I didn't though. I watched enthralled as one stood up and preened, giving me a look.
Later, some Emperor penguins walked ponderously up to us, regal in their black and white outfits. After three-and-a-half magical hours we were back on the boat. I was nick-named the penguin whisperer!
Crystal Palace
On a beautiful evening at SANAE, we set off on skidoos for this much talked about place. Rocky buttresses towered up on our right and flat, blindingly white ice stretched away into infinity on our left.
It was exhilarating whizzing down to the base of the mountain. From there we went on foot.
| AWE-INSPIRING: Crystal Palace – a sacred place at the base of theVesleskarvet mountains Picture: DUDLEY FOOTE |
The mountains, indigo blue in the shadows, dazzlingly white in the sunshine, and framed by an ultramarine sky, dwarfed us. Frozen snow flows over the top of them like icing sliding off a cake. A small oval of frozen turquoise lake nestles at their base. We sat sipping our drinks, awe-struck and humbled in that sacred place. We are indeed privileged to have been there.
Heading home
On February 5, the first of us flew back to the boat. Having seen only a few birds at SANAE, my heart soared at the sight of seals and penguins moving about on the ice.
Then havoc – one helicopter was disabled by a broken skid, we were beset by storms and pack-ice prevented the ship from getting to the shelf. Many had to go by Cat-train (Caterpillars, sledges and bulldozers) to the shelf and be flown from there. Some equipment, too heavy for the chopper, had to be left behind.
Finally on February 22, 10 days late, and with reserves running low, we headed north. Seas were rough, but March 2 dawned warm and sunny. There were whales, dolphins and many birds about. Someone shouted "Land Ahoy!” as the distant blur of the Cape came into view.
It was a cliché happy ending; a couple kissing against a backdrop of a magnificent sunset and the twinkling lights of Cape Town. At 8am on March 3 we docked. After three months away, we were finally home. My dream had come true!
More at and
