New dawn for ‘land of a thousand hills’

Almost 25 years after the Rwanda genocide, Ben Ross finds a rejuvenated nation

Wherever you stop in this country,” said Alex Kagaba, “the ground will always produce people.” We’d parked on a dusty escarpment along the shore of Lake Kivu to take in the view. This time I thought he might be wrong. A couple of breeze-block homesteads, tin roofs gleaming, stood out on a hillside swathed in deep green, but for once we weren’t passing through the settlements that lined our route; weren’t being waved at by neatly-clad schoolchildren.

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