Looks aren’t everything, but wine is one of those products highly susceptible to perceptions based on looks – a name, label design, even the weight and shape of the bottle – and price tag, before the consumer has even had a taste.
How many times have you had morning-after regrets after falling for a cheapie wine with a historic-sounding name and grand label design?
On the other side of the coin, many a quality (and not-cheap) wine has fallen victim to a label that “looks cheap” and so a perception that the wine is probably over-priced; while many an inexpensive mass-market wine has scored tops in blind tastings where labels are out of sight and names not revealed.
In the lush Bonnievale valley on the banks of the Breede River, part of the Robertson wine route generally known for its value wines and friendly hospitality, Bonnievale Wines have long prided themselves on making accessible, affordable, enjoyable wines that offer good value for money.
But they realised some time ago that those key factors of price, looks and quality weren’t quite lining up in the consumer’s mind.
Despite being widely acknowledged as way over-delivering on quality for price for those who took the trouble to buy and taste for themselves, the wines were inexpensive – and looked it.
Without tinkering too much with prices, a rand or two here and there, Bonnievale has cleverly created three distinct ranges to appeal to different consumer segments, and given each a clean and contemporary look to match.
The entry-level Nature range with pretty floral labels and names, such as Night, Dusk and Dawn, are happy informal wines and a good introduction for those new to wine. They’re all slightly on the sweet side, pleasant and soft, easy-drinking, and priced in the mid-R40s.
The dry white Mist has appealing tropical and fresh fruit flavours and a pleasant zing on the finish – nicely summery and a tad more depth than I would have expected.
The mid-level River Collection sports a contemporary interpretation of the Bonnievale coat of arms – and they’ve been raking in the awards since their launch mid-year (all well-priced round R50-ish for whites and rosé, and under R70 for reds).
The range covers most wine cultivars but look out especially for the cinsault rosé, relatively low in alcohol with a pleasant minerally tang to offset berry sweetness – a super lunchtime wine.
The sauvignon blanc is soft and fruity, an unsurprising top-seller, but I would vote with the judges for the chardonnay. It’s unwooded and a real surprise of fragrant nose, zesty lime, gentle minerality and lightly creamy butterscotch. A lovely wine and outstanding for the price (3.5 stars and a Platters “hidden gem”).
The shiraz is another one racking up the awards – a light, bright style with aromatics, savouriness and spice, while the soft and easy cab-merlot would make a great restaurant house wine to suit diverse palates and food styles, and there’s a ripe and juicy pinotage well worth trying with your next braai.
The best of the best are reserved for the upper-level Barrel Select red wines – only 5,000 litres made and only when the grapes are good enough. The current releases are 2015 and so still wear the old branding and they’re really well priced at around R100, and also have multiple gold and silver medals in their pedigrees.
The 2015 cabernet is dark and intense, big on flavour but elegant, and with typical cab notes of cassis and toasty oak. It’s even better a day after opening – the tannins softening and more complex and mellow flavours appearing.