I grew up in an era where the closest we got to home-baked, traditional produce were the chocolate cakes and coconut ices of the local home industry – the tuisnywerheid run by chubby-cheeked tannies who were as famous for their crocheted doilies as the sweet, cheap and delicious treats they sold.

Back then, lemon meringue was just that: lemon curd, plus meringue. But as the tuisnywerheid era fell away, so too did artisanal food; and you’ll agree that mass-produced lemon meringue simply doesn’t match up...