Owls hooting and lions roaring in the starlit depths of the night are surefire ways of reminding you that living in South Africa can mean experiencing nature at its diverse and thrilling best.
At times, though, we have to remind ourselves that living in this beautiful country with the lure of the Big Five is a rare privilege, none more so than in the Eastern Cape, where the Big Five has now grown to encompass the Big Seven.
It’s a lifestyle envied and shared in, all too briefly for them at least, by well-heeled travellers drawn to our shores by the prospect of the ultimate safari.
Sadly though, for many living in this impoverished province, the game experience may be limited to an occasional day trip to Addo which, splendid though it is, does not allow for night-time interaction with animals.
Changing all that is the Mpongo Private Game Reserve on the outskirts of East London where the game experience is both affordable and unusual.Luckily, for me at least, affordable at Mpongo does not meaning slumming it in a tent, even of the glamping variety – far from it in fact.
Accommodation is luxurious and varied, but more of that elsewhere.What makes Mpongo different is that it offers flexible packages starting with the basics of accommodation and then adding on meals, game drives, game walks and bush picnics in a quiet area of the reserve.Throw in the fact that guests have the opportunity to enjoy an animal interaction experience which mere words are insufficient to describe, then you have a concept bordering on the unique – especially as this experience comes without having to leave the comfort of the selected base for your stay.We were fortunate enough to spend two nights in the only suite at the decidedly upmarket River Lodge, one of four accommodation options at Mpongo.While our room was stunning, featuring a king-sized bed, open-plan slipper bath (with screens thoughtfully provided for privacy), separate shower and toilet and its own spacious lounge, it was the outdoor area which came into its own.
A huge wraparound stoep with comfortable outdoor furniture was the ideal place not only to relax, but also to interact with a variety of animal species you would not normally get close to.Our first visitors were a family of curious warthogs, followed up by a massive ostrich – wild animals which deserve to be treated as such, but which afforded us photographic opportunities par excellence.
It could not be beaten, we thought. Wrong. The next day, having returned from a rewarding game drive, we went to the suite to freshen up. Arriving at the room a few minutes after my daughter, I was curtly instructed: “Stay out of the room!”
Was there a snake, I wondered? No, it was nothing scary at all, but rather two or three curious Nyala were on the stoep, the baby of the family tapping on the window, asking to be let in (bad idea, game ranger Jason Murray assured us, they can be very messy!).
My daughter wanted to capture the moment on camera before I chased them away with my arrival, but this proved to be far from the case.After a while, with the animals staying firmly put, we ventured outside where the small family was subsequently joined by dad and the rest of his harem, all of them almost completely tame and not at all bothered by our presence.We snapped away contentedly, getting some amazing shots before the herd ventured off in search of pastures new.Having had such an awe-inspiring experience, a game drive may seem slightly redundant, but be assured if you opt for this add-on you will be well rewarded.
The extremely knowledgeable Reggie Kitching was our guide for our two-hour morning drive and, while we did not chance upon the somewhat reclusive elephants, we did spot a variety of game, most of which were completely at one with both the reserve and the game vehicle, being more curious than skittish.The only real exception to this rule were the plentiful Burchell’s zebra which nonetheless posed happily, if briefly, for photographs.Skittish was certainly not the case with the giraffe, which did not seem at all perturbed by our presence, nor were the countless species of buck we came across.
Mpongo is also a birder’s paradise and, in association with the Endangered Wildlife Trust, has re-introduced the endangered billed ox-pecker, a bird species regionally extinct in that part of the Eastern Cape since the early 1900s.
There are more than 250 bird species at the reserve, some of which, including fork-tailed drongas and an array of kingfishers, can be spotted while savouring a sundowner on your stoep.
A second drive in the afternoon, this time with Jason as our guide, was equally rewarding, even if  it failed again to unveil to elephants’ hiding place. Nor did we come across the resident buffaloes, but they are never high on my must-spot list.
We did, however, take in more animals as we traversed endless kilometres of magnificent bush scenery and, as we neared the lodge, the unusual roadblock of a drowsy ostrich.Game drives aside, there are a number of ways to enjoy the delights of Mpongo, including early morning bush walks and the aforementioned bush picnics – which raises the topic of food.
As with everything else at Mpongo, meals come as add-ons, with the exception of breakfast which is included.
For our visit, the most important meal of the day was served at the Huberta restaurant, about 2km from the River Lodge and named after South Africa’s travelling hippo. Nicknamed the “Wandering Star of South Africa”, Huberta travelled more than 1600km south where journalists attempted to photograph her graceful safari through Africa.
Honoured by the isiXhosa as a spirit of an ancient chief, she was tragically shot near East London in 1931.
The restaurant which bears her name, also used to play host to a hippo couple in its surrounding dam, but sadly they died a few months apart a few years ago.
Nevertheless, the restaurant provides the ideal setting to quieten hunger pangs.
Breakfast proved to be a colonial-style, sumptuous buffet, offering fruit, cereals, cold meats and cheeses, as well as the traditional full English with bacon, mushrooms, sausages, beans and eggs cooked to order.
Main meals are served back at the lodge in the elegant dining room/bar/TV lounge overlooking the swimming pool.
On the first night of our stay, we enjoyed another buffet meal, this time a traditional bush braai with salads, delicious boerekos-style hot veggies including a potato bake, creamy spinach and glazed carrots and, of course, an array of meats cooked over the fire.
A choice of desserts rounded off the satisfying meal, which was washed down by an affordable carafe of dry white wine.
And so it was back to our room to savour the sights and sounds of Africa at night. Cellphone reception is non-existent at River Lodge, and the free WiFi more than a little bit dodgy.But who needs that when you have the bush to entertain you?
Eventually, as we sank into the extra-large, super-comfy.bed, savouring the thoughts of another day of exploration, we heard the lions roaring in the distance, sending us off to the land of nod in a truly content frame of mind.At one with nature. As it should be.
ACCOMMODATION
Options to suit most pocketsFlexibility is the name of the game at Mpongo and, as such, there is an array of accommodation options to suit most pockets – and for the winter months special rates apply.
We stayed at the River Lodge, which provides game lodge accommodation in the heart of the reserve.The lodge has luxurious bedrooms, including the large suite perfect for honeymoons and which was our home for two nights, as well as three chalets, each of which have two en-suite bedrooms and an inter-leading loungeThere’s also a boma, a swimming pool and views of the Umpongo River.
Mpongo’s Huberta Lodge is located at the day centre and offers true Eastern Cape hospitality in its six African-colonial-styled en-suite bedrooms.
Indlovu Lodge offers luxury hilltop game lodge accommodation.From its perch overlooking the reserve, the Indlovu Lodge boasts incredible views. It has standard rooms as well as dormitory accommodation with a shared communal lounge and , dining room.
Guests at Indlovu have their own private swimming pool.For families or large groups wanting the utmost in seclusion there’s also the Umthombe bush villa in the heart of the reserve. It has two separate luxury holiday homes and operates on a full service basis.
This exclusive retreat has five luxury bedrooms, all with en-suite bathrooms, a pool and its own staff. It can only be booked as an entire lodge. Conference facilities are also available.
Winter Specials
The winter special applies to all rooms, but varies according to which accommodation you opt for.
Standard rooms at Huberta Lodge are R510 per person sharing per night including breakfast. Standard rooms at Indlovu Lodge are R635 per person sharing, bed and breakfast, while deluxe rooms at River Lodge are R685 per person sharing, bed and breakfast. The honeymoon suite at River Lodge is R1975 per person per night, dinner, bed and breakfast.
Look out for other in-season specials. Children under 12 stay free. For more details call (043) 742- 9000/2 or e-mail info@mpongo.co.za
Game viewing a highlightFor most visitors to game reserves, the biggest thrill is coming across any of the big cats. Lion, leopard or cheetah are often the first prize.
At Mpongo’s day visitor centre this is made easy with a number of rescued lions living in spacious enclosures close to the reception area – for now at least.
Part of the ongoing plans to constantly improve on the Mpongo experience is, according to the reserve’s Cosmas Gate, to relocate the lions to larger enclosures on the reserve proper where they can roam a bit more freely.
Not that they seem unhappy with their present set-up. These are well-fed, contented beasts far more at peace with the world than they were in their previous lives at the zoos from which they were rescued.
The lions are not the only inmates at Mpongo’s day visitor touch farm (although there is obviously no touching these still dangerous predators!), with free-roaming bunnies, goats and the recent addition of a pair of crocodiles being among the other attractions.
If that is not enough, game drives are also open for day visitors, but booking is essential. Winter times are 7am to 9am, 9.30am to 11.30am and 3.30pm to 5.30pm, while drives start earlier in the summer months.
The normal price is R550 per person for three persons pax and more, R595 per person for two and R880 for one person, but there is a 20% discount on winter game drives, all of which include snacks, water and a drink.
Back at the reception area, the Huberta restaurant is also open to day visitors and is especially popular for its Sunday lunches.
How to get thereGetting there, for us at least, proved not to be half the fun.
There are scant directions on the somewhat out-of-date website for Port Elizabeth residents, with what little information offered taking us on a route that is best forgotten.
Whichever route you take from PE will take over four hours as there are extensive roadworks on the R72 between Port Alfred and East London and also roadworks, to a lesser extent, on the N2.
Should you opt to take the N2 as we did, wanting to avoid going through East London, we were directed to use exit 1025 to get to Mpongo.
What followed was 20km of misery. We drove through impoverished townships littered with neglected malnourished, pregnant dogs, for almost 20 kilometres on roads that cannot in the loosest terms be described as roads.
There was more pothole than road. It was an utter nightmare. You would be far better served to rather proceed on the N2 to a roundabout on the outskirts of East London and then take the N6 towards Stutterheim.
This road is pure pleasure by comparison.
DIRECTIONS FROM THE BEACON BAY CIRCLE:
Turn left/right onto the Friendly N6, travel for 28km, passing Newlands and Ducats on your left;
 Look out for the Mpongo sign on your left and turn left into St Lukes Road;
You will travel about7km on this road and reach Mpongo Private Game Reserve on your right.