The Cock House comes of age
Text: Louise Liebenberg
Having nearly been driven bonkers during the period of renovations that preceded the opening, with their two boisterous Labrador pups adding to the chaos of the time, the Tudges nevertheless succeeded in turning the Cock House into a tourism industry leader not only in their own city but also in South Africa. It offered unfaltering service and comfortable country accommodation in a city rich in history and tradition – and Belinda’s gift for fine dining sweetened every stay.
Peter, who had been schooled in Grahamstown as a boy, sadly died in 2003 and Belinda then sold the Cock House to a businessman turned cattle rancher from Limpopo in 2005. But what hasn’t changed one iota is her extraordinary commitment to this by now quite famous landmark – that dedication is as unfailing as ever, so much so that she is still closely involved as a consultant both in marketing the property and mentoring its staff.
My husband Salvelio and I were joined for drinks and dinner by well-known local, Jock McConnachie. Just back from a Graaff-Reinet trip, he said he fancied little more than settling in by the roaring fire to enjoy some excellent Gilroy stout, which he promptly introduced us to.
In the entrance hall of the guesthouse we pored over pictures of the Cock House’s illustrious past owners. The place has a fascinating history, the original plot granted in 1826 to Benjamin Norden, a Jewish merchant from London and one of Grahamstown’s best-known citizens. Norden, after whom the Cock House restaurant is named, later moved to Cape Town where, in 1841, he helped establish the Jewish tradition in South Africa by inaugurating the first Jewish congregation.
In 1835 he sold the plot and premises to Dr John Atherstone, a district surgeon of Grahamstown whose son, William Guybon, authenticated South Africa’s first diamond. During Atherstone’s tenure at the property it is believed the stable – now guestrooms one and two facing the garden – served as a grain store for a mill in town. The Hon William Cock, after whom the house would later be named, was another prominent owner. He died in 1876 and lies buried in Port Alfred where he had been instrumental in dredging the mouth of the Kowie River and putting in place the infrastructure needed to establish a thriving harbour. "Sadly Cock’s enterprise came to naught when the government eventually abandoned his scheme in 1880,” Belinda said.
The Webber family then lived at the Cock House, which they called Adelphi House, for some 40 years. John Henry Webber, mayor of Grahamstown in the early 1900s, transformed the front of the house by adding the Burmese teak and trellis work verandah so characteristic of the property today.
Between 1971 and 1981 the noted South African author André P Brink also lived here and was responsible for much of the initial restoration work. "The present drawing room was his study, wall to wall with bookshelves, where he wrote four of his books, including A Dry White Season and Rumours of Rain,” Belinda shared.
She said a large measure of the Cock House success story was thanks to staff members from the local community who’d had no previous experience or training.
Many former staff as well as guests and Grahamstown locals who have supported the Cock House over the years have been invited to two special anniversary dinners being held on Wednesday and Friday. On the menu will be past dishes such as coq au vin and chocolate brioche-and-butter pud.
With the National Arts Festival around the corner a "festival menu” is now in place, with Belinda as usual having had "a bit of fun” using some of this year’s productions as inspiration for the dishes.
Excluded are costs such as drinks, laundry and telephone calls. The winners must also make their own way to Grahamstown and back.
