THE French catwalks are perhaps the most influential and none more so than the haute couture shows at Paris Fashion Week, as seen last month with both classic and cutting-edge silhouettes, tailoring and textures to the fore. Belgian designer Serkan Cura ignited the ramp, marrying Hollywood’s golden era with Gaultier-style oomph.
The Turkish-born Cura, who trained in the atelier of Jean Paul Gaultier, liberally used feathers, tiny bustiers and nude-coloured corsets but maintained a sexy silhouette with pinched waists often the order of the day.
Classic numbers included gowns in black and white festooned with feathers and trim, reminiscent of the days of Marlene Dietrich and Rita Hayworth – a bow to unabashed femininity but with a touch-me-not feel.
A black peekaboo gown ended from the waist downwards in feathers with a split skirt but the repertoire also ran to catsuits with a modern deconstructed twist.
Contemporary trends also featured with sizzling bustiers – perhaps a nod to Gaultier? – and a micro-mini dress in silver reminiscent of Paco Rabanne’s metal dresses that were emblematic of the Swinging ’60s.
A highlight of the current season was Chanel’s airy look for the Spring-Summer 2014 collection with models sporting tennis shoes and pastel shades.
“It has to be light otherwise couture’s image will be dated,” Lagerfeld told reporters after the show. – AFP