River deep, mountain high

Unique experiences await at Tsitsikamma and the Fernery, writes Louise Liebenberg

[caption id="attachment_103623" align="alignright" width="300"] PLACE OF PEACE: Rowing boats on the dam provide a relaxing activity at any time of the day.[/caption]

TSITSIKAMMA is a Khoi word meaning “place of abundant or sparkling water”. It is a simple word, but there is magic and purity locked up in it, almost as if the ancient, tongue-twisting “tsi-tsi” syllables want to leap from your lips like a tinkling spring. This incredibly scenic part of South Africa – scarcely two hours’ drive from Port Elizabeth – is known for its vast tracts of indigenous forest and fynbos interspersed with plantations.

The geography is jaw-dropping: The region, which sits on a 200-metre high plateau stretching from the Bloukrans River in the west to the Tsitsikamma River in the east, is bordered in the north by the awe-inspiring Tsitsikamma Mountains and in the south by the wild Indian Ocean.

All along the coastline a succession of small, pristine rivers make their way to the sea, sometimes placidly, sometimes furiously, forming, over time, deep gorges with spectacular waterfalls.

It is little wonder that this magical (some might even say mystical) part of the world attracts visitors from around the globe, the added attraction – besides the rugged natural beauty, of course – being that the geography lends itself to the full spectrum of adventure activities.

Though adrenalin-inducing pursuits are not high up on my list (my idea of living on the edge is taking the stairs instead of the lift), I do have immense appreciation for a genuinely unique natural setting, especially one that is managed with sensitivity and vision so future generations might become its custodians.

This gentle touch upon the land is evident at the Fernery Lodge and Chalets, situated on owners Frans and Meg Gerber’s 109-hectare Forest Ferns Estate and, thankfully, as appealing to adventure lovers as to those simply seeking serenity and solitude.

A 6km dirt road off the N2 near Storms River led us to this private cliff-side paradise boasting some of the finest views you are likely to find anywhere in South Africa.

Don’t be fooled by the entrance: you’ll pass the working end of the farm first (the Gerbers and their son, general manager Johan, export ferns and other foliage products) before you reach the lodge and chalets that are so cleverly designed around the natural vegetation and cliff line that they are easy to miss.

Though the road could be in better shape (rains tend to rough it up and the fact it is also used by forestry vehicles probably doesn’t help) we found that even our low Polo could comfortably cope.

A huge attraction for those who like to work up a sweat in style is Frans’s brainchild, the internationally renowned Dolphin Trail, a partnership between Sanparks, the Fernery and Misty Mountain Reserve. You hike for two days, all your luggage is portered and you spend three nights in comfort at different establishments, ending at the Fernery.

• Bookings for the Fernery Lodge and Chalets are on (042) 280-3588 or e-mail: reservations@forestferns.co.za . Visit their website at www.forestferns.co.za . For the Dolphin Trail, see www.dolphintrail.co.za . Lodge suites start from R1 020 per person per night and chalets start from R1 020 per person (rates valid until April 30 next year).