It’s a matter of black and white

Gillian McAinsh

WHERE spring and summer catwalks for 2012 were awash with vibrant colours, the outlook for the 2013 season will see crisp black and white dominate.

The runway shows for SA Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 featured 30 designers, including top names such as Suzaan Heyns, Stoned Cherrie, Black Coffee and Rubicon earlier this month in Johannesburg. Many of the designers cut back on saturated tropical hues to present purely monochromatic collections:

This year’s shows also featured a new format for designers. In addition to a double ramp that allowed twice the number of “front row” seats, several collections were presented in an installation format, allowing guests to view garments in detail.

New talent featured in the Lufthansa First Best Collections, where Port Elizabeth fashion design graduate Laz Yani displayed a well-received range of resort wear under his Cutterier label.

International labels like Gucci and Marc Jacobs have led the black and white charge, echoed by Colleen Eitzen, Gert-Johan Coetzee, Tiaan Nagel and Clive Rundle at the Rosebank shows. Shapes veered between hard-edged and body-con to more fluid silhouettes – Yani’s ultra-feminine collection, for example, is a one-size-fits-all in soft jersey knit, and Eitzen showed softly draped pants and skirts. Peplums, bow-ties and flirty skater skirts also were spotted.

Other trends to note included:

ýMoody blue: cobalt blue – a much deeper tint of the mint seen last summer – is one of the on-trend colours (Funduzi by Craig Jacobs), along with sea- and emerald-green.

ý50 Shades: fierce styling with spikes, studs, cuffs and lashings of leather softened by sheer cut-outs (Black Coffee).

ýBoudoir: sheer fabrics, chiffon and lace as seen in Suzaan Heyns’ s vintage-tinged range and Vesselina Pentcheva’s gorgeous gowns.

ýGeometrics: a strong focus on graphic looks.

ýStripes: next season’s stripes are wider and bolder.

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