Brandy pairing a spirited affair
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Pairing premium brandy with food is perhaps not terrifically mainstream, but it does make for an interesting flavour experience if you are keen to appreciate the finer nuances of this age-old spirit.
Jozi-based Distell brandy ambassador Nick Holdcroft visited the Bay last week to take guests through such an experience, with one French cognac and four award-winning Van Ryn’s brandies from the Stellenbosch-based distillery matched to dishes conceptualised by Bocadillos on First chef Candy Watson.
And why shouldn’t a brilliant brandy be enjoyed with a good-quality meal? It’s every bit as complex and varied in bouquet and flavour as wine, after all.
Though not a huge brandy fan, I’ve always found it to be really good with rich desserts, particularly if chocolate and cream are involved; another good combo is with strong cheese. But when it comes to matching brandy with other foods the best approach is usually to try and echo some of the flavours you pick up in the brandy in the actual dish.
This was exactly what chef Candy set out to do, and for our first tasting she hit the nail on the head by pairing the Van Ryn’s 15-year-old Fine Cask Reserve (named world’s best brandy a few years ago) with a cheese board which, besides cheeses and preserved figs, also had cured meats on it in the form of salami and parma ham.
Next was the Bisquit Cognac VS – the “proper” French stuff though I much preferred all of the SA brandies we tasted. We had the Bisquit (pronounced bees-keeh) with pork belly and roast sweet-potato. The sweetness of the pork accentuated the fruity aromas of the brandy while the sweet-potato picked up the cinnamon notes.
The Van Ryn’s 12-year-old Distiller’s Reserve (which won gold at this year’s New York International Spirits Competition) was served with delicious lamb shank with pea puree and caramelised red onion. This brandy goes nicely with rich, aromatic dishes and it was felt the lamb would stand up well to it, though I’m not entirely convinced it did.
The Van Ryn’s 20-year-old Collector’s Reserve, which also took gold in the Big Apple, was paired with parmesan-crusted salmon on purple potato mash – yes, purple potato! Bocadillos on First’s Lauren van Deventer couldn’t wait to share these “crazy potatoes” with us and they certainly were a talking point!
The creamy earthiness of the potato and gentle smokiness of the fish made for a very astute pairing with the beautifully smooth brandy described by Nick as “Christmas in a glass”.
Last up was the Van Ryn’s 10-year-old paired with chocolate brownie, hazelnut truffle and some fresh cream with a coffee bean on top. This was my favourite pairing as the brandy itself also had some lovely coffee and chocolate notes. But it was the hazelnut in the dish that, according to Nick, provided the stroke of genius in this pairing.
Besides trying out beguiling flavour combinations with some of SA’s top brandies, the evening offered an opportunity to learn how to drink brandy like a true aficionado. Don’t swirl the glass before you sip, Nick advised, as you’ll only get hit over the head by the alcohol.
Brandy is also best when slightly warmed; this is achieved by cupping the glass in your hand for a bit before taking that first sip. Lastly brandy should never be rushed; take it nice and slow, in the company of great mates, and savour every sip!
