Feast as in ‘bella Italia’
Too broke to do Italy? Head for Villiers Road instead
[caption id="attachment_93581" align="alignright" width="300"] TASTE OF ITALY: Tagliolini alla Sorrentina is a dish that evokes the flavours of the Bay of Naples[/caption]
IT MAY be the middle of winter, but it feels like a blissful Mediterranean breeze has blown into town; one of those subtle, almost sensuous ones that bring relief to romance-flushed cheeks and sun-kissed bodies.
The recently opened Il Tricolore Restaurant in Villiers Road, Walmer, is completely evocative of an honest little diner in bella Italia and, as soon as you arrive there, you simply can’t help but cease your whining about the cold.
The decor is scant; the service not always spot-on; the menus usually in very short supply. But who cares about the trimmings when things here are just as they should be . . . all about the food, of course!
Il Tricolore quietly opened on June 2; chef and owner Fabrizio Mercuri imagined a “soft” opening but virtually from day one he has been inundated with patrons evidently hungry for “proper Italian”, unlike the mostly pseudo offerings they will have been exposed to in the Bay of late.
My husband, Salvelio, and I visited earlier this month and, being of Spanish descent, he instantly felt at home at Il Tricolore. And why not? At the next table were Greeks and Italians, talking animatedly while heartily tucking into their food and wine.
There is a common bond that people from Latin countries share and, much as they love to hate each other on the soccer field, there is often a deep appreciation of, and ability to relate to, each others’ culture and cuisine.
When it comes to food and feasting, for me an evening always bodes well when I look at a menu and have difficulty deciding what to order for the simple reason that everything sounds so darn delicious!
This was certainly the case at Il Tricolore. There is a reasonable selection of starters, also pastas and pizzas, as you would expect, followed by mains including such classics as my absolutely favourite Italian dish of Saltimbocca and, finally, dessert.
Salvelio and I started with the zucchine fritte (R45) – an unfussy pile of deep-fried, crispy-coated baby-marrow “squiggles” (for want of a better word) – to share. These were quickly gobbled up with the accompanying chilli mayo and carretierra sauce – the latter an uncooked tomato and garlic sauce with just enough acidity to cut through the oil from the zucchini.
Though the pizzas and home-made, fresh pastas sounded very tempting, Salvelio could not resist the pull of fresh-as-can-be potato gnocchi with four cheeses and a scattering of walnuts. This seemingly simple dish proved to be just the sort of hearty fare needed on a freezing July evening and, at just R65, was excellent value for money.
Il Tricolore is at 123 Villiers Road, Walmer. They are open Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 3pm and 6 to 10pm; and Sunday from noon to 3pm. Bookings are on (041) 581-1414. This review visit was unannounced, anonymous and the meal paid for in full. -Louise Liebenberg
