Cloudy with a chance of perfection
ANYWHERE reached via a gravel road cuts the mustard in terms of going Somewhere, in my opinion. So with this sort of Somewhere in mind we settled on Cloud Cottage 60km north of Plettenberg Bay in Prince Alfred's Pass for a weekend break, and it was a 60km that most certainly delivered in terms of the journey as well as the destination.
Prince Alfred's Pass is a winding 85km gravel road between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay on the N2 in the south and Avontuur on the R62 to the north. Prince Alfred's Pass was built by Sir Thomas Bain between 1860 and 1867, and the original hand-packed stone retaining walls, which have stood the test of time, are as impressive as the sheer drops and magnificent views.
The first part of the journey cuts through the Diepwalle forest nature reserve, an awe-inspiring cathedral world of green.
After Diepwalle, the landscape opens up, with every twist of the road revealing vistas of mountains. It's wise to approach the more serpentine sections with caution, as the local cowboys seem to have no fear of speed or hairpin bends.
About 60km north of Knysna and Plettenberg Bay on the N2, or 11km south of Avontuur on the R62, look out for a sign directing you to Cloud Cottage, a self-catering getaway on the Dry family farm, Voog se Kraal.
Upon arrival we were presented with a box of matches and some paper to get the fire going in the donkey boiler. Don't be too distracted by the beautiful interior of the stone and adobe cottage that seems to have sprung from the hillside, get that fire going in good time before evening. Nothing should get in the way of enjoying a piping hot bath in the unusual bathroom that features a massive boulder as part of one wall.
Cloud Cottage's lack of electricity or cellphone reception is a definite drawcard if you fancy a holiday truly far from the madding crowd. But this does not mean a lack of home comfort. The self-catering cottage has two bedrooms which sleep up to six people, and a fully equipped open-plan kitchen/dining room, and lounge.
The gentle illumination of paraffin lamps and candles, and the warm glow of the fireplace are a reminder of the beautiful simplicity of life.
Voog se Kraal uses organic biodynamic farming methods to enrich the pastures on which the five Jersey cows and 60-strong herd of white Saanen goats graze. It is the home of Cloud Cottage Cheese.
Guests have the opportunity to experience the workings of the farm first-hand, and the youngest member of our party, seven-year-old Jasmine, was not going to miss the chance to see the five Jersey cows being milked at first light. Hence we were up (indecently) early, but eating cereal with creamy milk still warm from the cow's udder was more than fair compensation.
We spent an invigorating morning exploring some of the trails that traverse 800ha of mountains, fynbos, ravines, streams, waterfalls and rock pools. Sadly, there is more scope for exploration than we had time for, which means we will simply have to return.
That afternoon, we were back at the milking shed to watch the goats being fed, and each one of them really does come when called by name.
Packing up to go home after just two days was sweetened by the prospect of the scenic return journey home.
On our way back, we took the time to stop off at De Vlugt, the little hamlet about 8km south of Voog se Kraal. The tea garden is a must-visit, not just for the "sexy" milk tart but for tales of De Vlugt's rich history as the settlement which the road crew called home.
The Diepwalle area also has many attractions worth investigating. The Valley of Ferns sign was too tempting to pass by, and we whiled away a pleasant hour walking a trail beneath massive tree ferns. Another worthwhile diversion just beyond the Valley of Ferns, is the Spitskop lookout area, as is the Diepwalle Forest Station and museum. - Nicky de Jager
For more information on Cloud Cottage, visit
